South Carolina.

South Carolina opens with a second tribe also called Waccamaw, distinct from North Carolina’s Waccamaw Siouan and, by her account, not entirely in agreement with them about whether the two groups are related. At around 300 enrolled members it is the smallest tribe she had met to that point, and she stayed in their building through a cold night before catching a bus to Myrtle Beach on a day off. Partway through this stretch, the odometer rolls past 500 miles.

A night at Little Petey State Park, campfire and songs with a fellow camper named Barbara, leads into the longest tribal stay of the trip: three nights at the Pee Dee Indian Tribal Grounds in McCall, a town small enough to cross by bike in about ten minutes. The Pee Dee let her sleep inside rather than tent outside, fed her, and put her to work clearing a field with a weed whacker. She learned their name comes from a Spanish word taken and repurposed by the tribe itself, and that of roughly 2,000 enrolled members, about 100 are actively involved day to day. The chief drove out personally to welcome her.